Understanding acne marks and scars

Before we look at how acne marks and scars form and what we can do to get rid of them, let's quickly recap what acne is and why it appears.

What's the difference between acne marks and acne scars?

 

Acne marks can disappear naturally, although this may take several months. Acne scars, on the other hand, are permanent skin lesions and will not disappear without treatment.

  • Isabelle Baratte, Dermatologist

    Isabelle Baratte, Dermatologue.

    Pimple marks are fresh red marks that will fade unless exposed to the sun, in which case they may turn brown. It is therefore important to protect these marks with sunscreen. These colored marks will fade on their own, but this may take several weeks. Acne scars are different.

    They are permanent marks, either indented or raised. They can, however, be reduced by dermatological means, such as peels, lasers and dermabrasion. A dermatologist should be consulted, and scars should not be treated until the acne has completely healed.

    Isabelle Baratte, Dermatologue.

Acne marks: how to get rid of them?

The skin around a pimple can change color, even when the lesion is no longer inflamed. Changing from red, purple to brown, marks can gradually fade on their own, but this can take time.

Simple gestures can help reduce the appearance of acne marks:

  • Avoid touching your face too regularly or wearing a lot of make-up - ideally choose non-comedogenic products.
  • Use an oil-free sunscreen to prevent hyperpigmentation.
  • Avoid popping pimples, blackheads and whiteheads.

Acne scars: what are they?

Scars form when an acne lesion penetrates deep into the skin and damages the tissues. Acne scars can take different forms and require different types of treatment.

Depressed acne scars

More common on the face, “atrophic” or “depressed” scars are located beneath the surrounding skin. They form when the body doesn't produce enough collagen during the healing process. There are three types.

These large scars are U-shaped. The shallower they are, the better they can be treated.

These are narrow, V-shaped scars that sometimes appear as small round or oval holes, much like a chickenpox scar. They are difficult to treat because they often run deep.

These large scars usually have rounded edges and an irregular appearance.

Before you start treating acne scars, it's important to keep three things in mind:

  • You need to get rid of your acne first, as new outbreaks can create new acne scars. In addition, some acne scar treatments are not compatible with acne medications. 
  • Your skin tone can have an impact on the type of treatment and its effectiveness. For example, laser treatments may result in more scarring and pigmentation for darker skin types.
  • Always consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional to determine the most appropriate treatment.

Often found in acne products, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) can make acne scars less visible. The acid acts as an exfoliant, removing the outer layer of skin and any discoloration or roughness.

Lactic acid peels performed by dermatologists can improve your skin's texture, appearance and pigmentation, and lighten acne scars. You can also find many lactic acid peels, serums and ointments in pharmacies.

Topical retinoids are another acne treatment that can reduce discoloration and make scars less visible. Don't forget to wear sunscreen, as retinoids make the skin more sensitive to the sun.

Salicylic acid cleanses pores and exfoliates skin.

Dermabrasion is a surgical technique. Health professionals remove the upper layer of the epidermis.

Chemical peels performed at home or by a dermatologist contain a strong acid that removes the top layer of epidermis to reduce deeper scars.

The laser is used by a healthcare professional to remove the top layer of skin. With this technique, the skin generally heals faster than after other treatments.

Products (such as hyaluronic acid, poly-L-lactic acid and body fat) are injected beneath the skin's surface to plump and smooth depressed scars. The effect lasts between 6 and 18 months, but some are permanent.

A technique that involves perforating the skin with an electric pen or roller. As the skin heals, it produces collagen.