Combination to oily skin? Don’t panic!
Visible pores, shiny skin, dull complexion … rings a bell?
Don’t panic! Our Bioderma experts are here to explain what causes your skin to get oily and how to deal with it.
What causes oily skin?
Hyperseborrhea : or when your skin produces too much sebum
Dermatologists consider oily skin to be a physiological skin type. That is to say that people with oily skin naturally produce too much sebum (known as hyperseborrhea).
Responsible for oily skin, hyperseborrhea is, endogenous (caused by internal factors), but can also be influenced by environmental factors.
All the esthetical inconveniences caused by oily skin are coming from this sebum imbalance, produced by the sebaceous glands in the dermis. Fundamental for skin protection, sebum is a component of the epidermis hydrolipidic film: it is the «lipidic» part of it.
What can explain this over-production of sebum?
The influence of hormones
Sebum production is regulated by feminine hormones (oestrogen), which limit it and masculine hormones which stimulate it. As a result, there isn’t any oily skin problems before the puberty!
For men and women, different mechanisms can lead to an increase of sebum secretion.
For instance, there is often a rise in sebum production just before menstruation, when the estrogen level drops and that of progesterone increases. On the contrary, during menstruation, the skin is drier.
Same thing for the face: the distribution of the sebaceous glands influences the production of sebum too. Maximum rate for the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) and cheeks, less on the eyelids and neck.
In the case of oily skin, there is an excess of sebum all over the face. Only the T zone is concerned in the case of combination skin, which has normal or dry skin on the rest of the face.
What you eat can also be linked to oily skin since the sebaceous glands use certain nutrients, such as glucose, acetate or fatty acids. A diet with a high glycemic index (with a high content of fast sugars) or rich in dairy products (except cheese) indirectly increases the synthesis of lipids by the sebaceous glands.
Stress, frustration and strong emotions can cause an increase in body temperature can lead to a peak of seebum production. The same goes for alcohol.
In summer, sebum production can also increase, due to arise in skin temperature!
What are the good habits to develop?
I properly clean my face
Keep in mind that sebum excess is partly responsible for cutaneous irregularities, red dots, or black heads.
To avoid the appearance of acne scars, combination or oily skin should be properly cleansed twice a day, morning and evening. Always prefer soft products, without soap or harsh detergents.
If you have combination skin, avoid tap water, rich in limestone and too aggressive for dry areas.
Regarding products, micellar waters are ideal for effectively removing sebum residue, dead skin, sweat and all traces of pollution, which are deposited on the epidermis. There are special micellar waters for oily skin, which respect the skin’s natural hydrolipidic film to cleanse it without stripping it.
I correctly nourish my skin
We sometimes tend to believe that combination to oily skin does not need to be hydrated. It’s totally wrong!
Combination skin, oily skin, shine, large pores … The problems are all different, but all combination or oily skin types needs hydration, that is to say water, not fat.
Ideally, the daily care of oily skin should moisturize, leave a matte finish and smooth the skin texture, often irregular. Beyond the short-term aesthetic aspect, the challenge is to manage to regulate the quantity of sebum durably. Among the ingredients that do the job for oily skin:
- Zinc and vitamin B6 with sebum-regulating effects
- Salicylic acid which has a keratolytic action to refine and smooth
- Astringent agaric acid, tightens large pores
These ingredients are also found in products and treatments targeted against blackheads which mainly affect oily skin.